Combine a personal inclination for minimalism with the smart decision to let the accessories do the talking at a brand known for excelling in leather goods and you get Matteo Tamburini’s action plan at Tod’s.
After a debut collection for fall 2024 that got a general thumbs-up, the brand’s creative director presented his first pre-collection, which built on the sleek, essential direction he’s decided to embrace at the Italian luxury company.
“I’m looking to reduce rather than add elements or new codes. Already with subtraction you can create a new language,” he said during a walk-through. “Plus this approach gives you the opportunity to gradually build a language season after season.”
In truth, the attitude also comes from a refreshing place of humility. The blue-eyed designer — a Bottega Veneta alum who while there surely got to hone his skills in delivering a luxury image while exalting artisanal tradition — may now have a role under the spotlight but seems immune to all the attention and the consequent pressure, maintaining his focus on making Tod’s craftsmanship shine.
As a result, he kept silhouettes simple in a quest to provide a wardrobe of timeless pieces and reinforce the importance of impeccable fabrications. For resort, his research hinged on channeling a sense of softness “intended to make movement easier” and adapt to the fast-paced, on-the-go life of the modern Tod’s woman.
Lightweight wool and supple napa leather on trenchcoats and paper-thin wrap skirts elegantly styled with double-layered poplin shirts added to the soft Pashmy suede, which turned a simple overshirt into one of the most covetable pieces. Tamburini also played with proportions and removable double constructions to heighten the versatility of the pieces, as seen in comfy knits and a trenchcoat layering removable nylon and cotton pieces.
In the same vein, accessories came in soft constructions and were often developed in tandem with the looks, best seen in a luxe openwork napa zippered jacket that came with a matching T Timeless tote bag.