There’s no denying that Hong Kong is one of the most exciting places on Earth. After its century-long loan to Britain, the territory has a unique identity, suspended between British and Cantonese culture, old and new, with modern, lofty skyscrapers, ancient temples, lush green peaks and Victorian-era tramlines.
The city and special administrative region in China is a hub of finance and commerce, attracting ex-pats from all over the globe to experience it. I have friends who left London for Hong Kong “for a couple of years” back in 2015 – they still haven’t made it home. I can see the appeal: though it has an undoubtedly hectic centre, with an impossible number of people living on top of each other in tower blocks (it’s officially one of the most densely populated places in the world), you only have to drive for a short distance to reach a beautiful shoreline. There are lots of islands such as Lantau to sail to for a beach break at the weekend and, of course, frequent short-haul flights to practically everywhere else in Asia. It even has a Disneyland.
For some greenery, simply head up to the Victoria Peak, via a hiking trail that’s surprisingly verdant despite its urban backdrop, with amazing views to reward those who make it to the top. There’s a vintage (but recently refurbished) tram for a more sedentary route to the summit.
The city took a big hit during the Covid pandemic, with its borders shut and strict restrictions in place for years – but now it’s back and welcoming visitors again.
Here’s the Bazaar edit of the ultimate luxury Hong Kong hit list…
Pop in to the Peninsula
Whether you drop by for afternoon tea in the time-travel lobby, dine at one of its many restaurants (with various Michelin stars among them), swim in the colonnaded indoor pool, or enjoy a treatment at the stellar spa, it’s a must to call in at this Hong Kong legend during your time in the city. The Peninsula has been an icon of Kowloon since it opened a century ago, with a new tower added seven decades later to keep up with the buildings springing up around it. Today, the grande dame is as elegant as ever, with dapper bellhops ready to hail you a cab once you’re eventually ready to leave, a lobby that will whisk you back in time by a few decades, and lots of restaurants and bars – for the best views back towards the island, it has to be Felix, a double-height space with a harbour-facing bar for cocktails before you dine.
Stay at the Regent
Another legend of the Hong Kong hotel scene, the Regent opened 40 years ago and has recently been restored to its former glory, with the help of new interiors by the Hong Kong-born designer Chi Wing Lo. The rooms and suites, many of which overlook Victoria Harbour and the island from this Kowloon-side setting, have a sort of Muji-store-gone-luxe feel, with pale wood walls, calming views of the water and a supreme sense of calm, which will be especially helped along by a soak in a harbour-facing bath tub.
The hotel is next door to the K11 complex, which combines museum and retail spaces, and has a prime TST (officially Tsim Sha Tsui) location, right on the waterfront. But there’s plenty to see and do at the hotel first – guests of certain rooms will get access to the harbour-facing Club Lounge, where they can enjoy everything from breakfast to afternoon tea and evening cocktails. The hotel is home to several dining destinations, including a popular steakhouse and a Nobu, but if you want to enjoy refined Chinese food with a view of the TST promenade, book a meal at Lai Ching Heen, which is the proud owner of two Michelin stars.
The lobby at the Regent
You may have just arrived off a long journey, but you can go on another one at Qura, the hotel’s standout bar, which has even more incredible views of the harbour, and various trinket-adorned corners (graced by antique monkeys) to move between as you continue your voyage through the night. The impressively curated selection of drinks will take a while to work through.
Master the art of the free-flow brunch at Zuma
It won’t take you long to realise that many ex-pats seem to spend half their weekend (or more) at a free-flow brunch and one of the best places to try the experience is at Zuma in Central, where you can keep the sushi and sashimi coming, alongside the bottomless champagne top-ups. Other plates on the menu, which can be ordered to excess (there’s really no limit), include tuna tartare with miso and lotus chips; seared salmon with lemon, shiso and soy; and avocado salad with tenkasu and a spicy citrus dressing. And that’s just the start – for main course, choose from dishes such as beef tenderloin with sesame, chilli and sweet soy; miso-marinated black cod; and teriyaki salmon.
Stay at the Upper House
If you’re planning on staying on Hong Kong Island, rather than what ex-pat locals love to call ‘the Dark Side’ (ie Kowloon), there’s no finer accommodation than the Upper House –just ask the various celebrities who have been known to call it home while in town. It’s elevated in more than name alone (though this moniker is most definitely a case of nominative determinism in action); guests enter and then travel up an elevator illuminated in a warm orange glow to be transported to the supremely serene space, which was created by the star designer André Fu back in 2009.
I arrived after an overnight flight and the contrast from the bright lights of the airport as I crossed over into the Upper House realm could not have been starker (the sheer relief when we were whisked out of the airport at dawn and into the sleek House car was transcendent enough). It’s about as flawless as a hotel can be, with more of that peaceful orange lighting helping to ensure everything is mood-lit to perfection come nightfall, magnificent views of the Victoria Harbour, and a central atrium with a multi-storey steel sculpture. Up at Salisterra, guests can enjoy everything from pancakes and pastries at breakfast, all the way through to pre-dinner cocktails with a view and delicious plates of Mediterranean food – a particular hit was the mushroom gnocchi, and be sure to save space for the lavender and lemon madeleines.
Have a cocktail at the highest bar in the world
There are many elevated drinking and dining destinations in Hong Kong, but towering above them all (literally) is the Ozone bar at the city’s Ritz-Carlton hotel. On the 118th floor of the ICC, it is officially the highest bar in the world. This high up, you’ll obviously be at the mercy of the elements so be sure to pick a cloud-free day for your visit – for when the weather is fine, there’s a terrace for the brave and vertigo-free to enjoy.
Celebrate all things soy at Mora
Hong Kong has an incredible food scene, whether you want to try local street food, authentic dim sum or multiple-starred fine-dining at altitude. One of the most exciting restaurants in the city is actually down at street level, but what it lacks in harbour and skyline views, it more than makes up for in innovative cooking. Mora has a bright young female chef at its helm and a tasting menu that pays homage to the simple soybean, with creative dishes such as udon noodles in a soy milk lobster bouillon and layered tofu with roasted maitake and black garlic. The restaurant is just off historic Upper Lascar Row, which is where to head to shop for antiques.
Sail the Victoria Harbour on a traditional junk
There are plenty of much more modern vessels afloat in the city’s harbour these days, but for a taste of old-world Hong Kong, book an evening voyage on board the Aqualuna, a classic wooden junk boat with distinctive red sails. You can alight at various points, including – helpfully for guests staying at the Regent – Tsim Sha Tsui’s Pier 1.
Getting there
Direct return flights from the UK to Hong Kong start from £632 return in economy, £1,176 in Premium and £3,550 in Business with Cathay Pacific (with up to five flights a day from London and four a week from Manchester). The airline’s Ilse Crawford-designed lounge at Heathrow’s Terminal 3 will help you get in the luxury mode as you enjoy a plate of dan dan mian noodles with a view of the runway, but it’s the Hong Kong hub that’s most well-equipped, since it has a hefty four lounges – the most famous of which is the Pier, where the premium champagne flows and you can enjoy the soothing, wood-panelled, dimly lit Asian aesthetic one last time before your flight home. It’s the perfectly Zen place to hide out before a long overnight journey, with a teahouse, noodle bar and pizza counter supplying the sustenance. It also helpfully gives you one last opportunity to stockpile dim sum.
For more information on Hong Kong, visit discoverhongkong.com. And for a brilliant introduction to the city, book a walking tour with Hong Kong Greeters.
