I have previously called Alfriston the best village in the country, and I stand by my opinion that when it comes to the sheer variety of things to see and do, no other village comes close. However, it was pipped by the winner in the “prettiest” rankings due – purely – to the absence of one thing that Alfriston can’t do very much about: the sea.
Anyway, back to what Alfriston does have to offer. At the heart of the village is a medieval high street lined by welcoming coaching inns, a treasure trove of antique shops, tea rooms, a labyrinthine book shop, and a village store with shelves heaving with local pickles, sweet treats and wines (the Rathfinny vineyard is just around the corner). Venture just off the main drag and you’ll find a green that could comfortably host a mass picnic for all 762 residents of the village.
The secret is very much out. Alfriston is packed on summer weekends, and the road going through the village can get quite busy at peak hours. Instead, pick a date in the shoulder season to see it at its best – and be sure to combine your visit with a trip to nearby Cuckmere Haven, overlooked by the Seven Sisters chalk cliffs.
For a pint
Part of the appeal of Alfriston is its fine selection of pubs. Aside from The Star (which is more of a restaurant, see below) you have the grade II-listed George Inn with its roaring fire, The Six Bells with its splendid garden that tumbles down to the village green (or “tye” in Sussex parlance), and The Smugglers, which hosts a monthly quiz and serves guest ales from nearby microbreweries.
Stay here
At The Star (part of the Polizzi Collection) the great outdoors and great indoors meet in style, with help-yourself Rockfish wellies, a well-stocked library for guests, and a glass of bubbles waiting on arrival (rooms start from £190 per night). You’ll also detect nods to the cultural heritage of the area dotted around the pub, with works by Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant of the Bloomsbury Group on display.
Did you know
Alfriston is one of the oldest villages in the country. It appears as Alvricestone in the Domesday Book of 1086, and Alfrichestuna in a French document from around 1150 (meaning Ælfric’s town).