Tuesday, November 5, 2024

The European island with romantic rocks, vineyards & affordable 5-star resorts

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IT took only one shot of Zivania to rid myself of my annoying little cough.

The Cypriot firewater was just the tonic to soothe my sore throat — after the burning wore off, of course.

Coral Bay beach in CyprusCredit: Getty
Get dinner with a view at the hotel restaurantCredit: Supplied

Not that I needed anything to warm me up, with Paphos — just four hours from the UK — being a sizzling 29C right now.

And I was learning to go with the flow after our tour guide, George, told us the itinerary was being changed so he could take us to his favourite spots.

Driving out of Paphos, we passed miles of citrus trees, verdant hillsides and vineyards before stopping off for a coffee at one of George’s favourite places in the tiny village of Mamonia.

Milos, a small roadside coffee stall run by a mother and son, is the place to drink a real Cypriot coffee.

Ground beans and sugar are mixed in a long-handled metal cup or pot called a briki.

The pot is pushed through super-heated sand and, as the coffee comes to a boil, a thick, creamy foam forms before it is then poured out.

And while we enjoyed our 10am brew, George brought out the first of the many firewater brandies of the day for us to have a shot of.

Thankfully I was also served the freshest halloumi alongside it — nothing like the versions in the UK.

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We were speedily handed a second plate after it barely lasted a few minutes.

And a visit to Cyprus is nothing without a trip to a winery, of which there are dozens scattered across the island.

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The inimitable George drove straight past the one we were meant to visit.

“They wanted me to take you to that one, but I’m going to take you to one better,” he explained.

Instead, we pulled up at Linos, a winery dating back to 1825, in the village of Omodos.

Along with delicious whites, roses and reds — once made for Royal Caribbean cruises — they are one of the few to create a rare blue wine.

Worried about its remarkable similarity to windscreen wiper fluid, I was put at ease after a quick sip likened it more to a dry white.

Legend has it that women who swim naked around the rock at midnight three times will be given eternal beauty

This was chased by Commandaria — the oldest wine still in production — and a pistachio liqueur, both so sweet I needed a few pieces of Cypriot village bread to break through it.

After losing count of the glasses of wine, to no surprise I found myself at the birthplace of Aphrodite — a large rock off a beach near Paphos — believing all the tales about the Greek goddess of love.

Laid-back luxury

Legend has it that women who swim naked around the rock at midnight three times will be given eternal beauty.

It is safe to say I wasn’t as keen to get starkers, so settled for the face I have now, albeit with a cheeky prayer for a helping hand with my love life.

No response of course, apart from an errant wave that caught my sock-covered ankles unaware.

Thankfully, to dry off, just down the road was my hotel, the 5H adults-only Ivi Mare resort in Paphos.

The 148-room hotel opened last year and promises laid-back luxury in chic, contemporary surroundings.

The huge pool — surrounded by white canopied cabanas and squishy loungers — is set in palm tree gardens and is just steps from the ocean.

Right next to it is the boho-esque Utopia pool bar, serving classic cocktails which can be ordered via the hotel app (avoiding the risk of losing that prime location sun lounger).

Even more tempting was the hot tub on the private balcony of my room.

Kara in the hot tub on the private balcony of her roomCredit: Supplied
The huge pool is surrounded by white canopied cabanas and squishy loungersCredit: Supplied

Inside my room, which featured a calming cream and blue colour palette, the super king-size bed was so big I couldn’t touch either side.

Any remaining stresses of the days were eased out after a massage at the on-site spa, a swim at the heated indoor pool and some live music at the Mirror Bar.

Trying to pick between the hotel restaurants was the only difficulty of the day.

You can choose B&B, half board or premium all-inclusive, depending on your budget.

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One night I was dining on Greek dishes of creamy hummus and rich pork at Alati Greek Flavours, while the cheeky waiter kept encouraging me to order more and more.

The next it was a Japanese menu of sushi rolls and gyozas, a divine option at Fiki Japanese Fusion restaurant.

And the Palettes main restaurant surprised me every morning with an ever-changing menu for breakfast, ranging from Mexican-style shakshuka to more traditional English breakfasts.

While the island may not have found me love, it certainly healed my body — if I can get used to a shot of ­Zivania every day.

Paphos’ old town shows its rich historyCredit: Getty

GO: CYPRUS

GETTING THERE/STAYING THERE: Four nights’ B&B at the Ivi Mare are from £500pp, including return flights from London Gatwick to Paphos. See easyjet.com/en/holidays.

MORE INFO: theivimare.com.

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