Until 2019, Saudi Arabia was closed to tourism; women had to cover up and couldn’t drive; and religious police patrolled the streets looking for evidence of subversive behaviour — which might have included wearing a bracelet if you were a man or daring to enter a male-only restaurant if you were a woman. Since its Crown Prince, Mohammed bin Salman, began his mission to liberalise the kingdom and diversify its economy from oil to tourism, its infrastructure and amenities have been transformed. Around the country, ambitious projects are underway: a futuristic city called Neom and luxury island hotels off the Red Sea coast; a ski resort in the mountains; nature reserves breeding rare desert animals around the country; and hiking trails in the hills of Abha.
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What to do
Edge of the World, near Riyadh
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Some attractions have already opened: in Jeddah, the restoration of the old city and the opening of a Formula One track, alongside several smart hotels; in Riyadh, the rebuilding of the 15th-century old town around Diriyah and transformation of the industrial site into 100 artists’ studios; outside Alula the construction of the world’s biggest mirrored building, Maraya, in the desert, and the restoration of a 6BC town into a tourist-friendly high street designed to showcase Saudi crafts, drinks (such as pomegranate juice; camel milkshakes; cardamon coffee) and delicious food, from smoky baba ghanoush to sweet pistachio-laden bread pudding.
But the country’s biggest attractions are those created by nature. Around AlUla lie dramatic, sandstone canyons — like those of Bryce Canyon in the US, or Cappadocia in Turkey — in which to hike, cycle and explore the incredible tombs of Hegra or the vast outdoor library of ancient rock inscriptions at Jabal Ikmah. In the south loom the mountains of Abha, with mountains and waterfalls. Outside Riyadh is the Edge of the World: a cliff that rises over a thousand metres into the air, from which to look out over the desert. Plus, along the Red Sea coast lie unexplored islands and resorts that offer great snorkelling and diving.
Where to stay
Saudi is an expensive country to visit and most of its newest hotels are five-star, such as the Mandarin Oriental and Four Seasons in Riyadh; the Shangri-La in a glittering skyscraper and Edition at the Yacht Club in Jeddah; and the kingdom’s first island resort, St Regis on the Red Sea. Alongside basic three-star hotels, there are a handful of more appealing spaces to sleep, from the Intercontinental and the Shada Hotel in Jeddah to simple contemporary bungalows at Cloud 7 in AlUla. Among the most inventive accommodation in that desert town are the spacious safari-style glamping tents of Banyan Tree, the contemporary Airstream caravans and food-truck restaurants offered by the hip brand Habitas, and the area’s first historic boutique hotel, Dar Tantora, constructed from 30 previously crumbling village houses.
There are also quite a few campsites around the country for those who fancy seeing the country up closer, ranging from smart glamping tents to air-conditioned caravans. Although distances are long, petrol in this oil-producing country is cheap, making taking off in a little 4×4 a more affordable option.
Who to do it with
Group trips to Saudi Arabia often include desert tours
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A range of operators — including Regent Holidays, Corinthian Travel, Trailfinders, Exodus Adventure Travels, Jules Verne, Intrepid Travel and Wendy Wu Tours — organise group trips around the country, taking in the key sites from Jeddah and Riyadh to the Red Sea and AlUla. Operators such as Steppes Travel, Wild Frontiers and Abercrombie & Kent also offer tailormade tours with private guides and drivers in air-conditioned luxury vehicles.
Visas are simple to apply for online; the fee includes health insurance while in the kingdom.
Don’t miss
The souks — Saudis love shopping, and alongside enormous polished malls lie traditional shopping streets, selling such precious traditional items as oud (to burn as incense), rose-oil perfumes, dates and cardamom-scented coffee. Hip boutiques such as Homegrown offer beautiful women’s clothing, abayas and jewellery, as do outdoor evening markets. The gold markets are worth a look — if only to ogle the size of the necklaces that grooms give their brides.
Best time to visit
November to March, after which it can get very hot (up to 55C in the desert, and very humid on the coast). Avoid Ramadan, as everything closes between dawn and sunset, when Muslims rest after a night of feasting and prayer.
FAQS
Elephant Rock, AlUla
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Is it safe to travel as a solo woman?
Because Saudi’s laws are so strict, there is very little crime, so it’s safe to walk around and take taxis, Uber and Careem cars alone. There are also taxi apps exclusively for women, including Wsslini and Leena. It is still a very conservative country, so women need to cover their bodies with loose clothing.
How do I get a visa?
Apply online (visa.visitsaudi.com). It usually takes only 24 hours and the fee covers mandatory private health insurance.
Do I need different travel insurance than normal?
No, unless you go to areas close to Yemen, which are considered unsafe by the Foreign Office.
What are the restrictions and do I need to follow them all?
Alcohol and drugs are forbidden; use of the latter can be punished by death (it’s worth travelling with a GP’s letter if you are carrying a lot of prescription drugs). Some spaces are gender segregated (for instance, mosques) and only some mosques allow non-Muslims inside. Only Muslims are permitted inside the city of Mecca.
What do I need to wear?
Although head coverings are no longer compulsory, women are expected to cover their shoulders, arms and legs and not to wear tight clothing. Some hotels allow women to sunbathe by a pool in a swimsuit; others ask for women to cover up after a swim. Modesty is also expected of men — shorts above the knee are not considered acceptable, except around the pool.
Can you drink alcohol in Saudi Arabia?
No. City bars stock a wide range of non-alcoholic wines, spirits, beers and inventive mocktails.
Is Saudi Arabia safe for LGBT travellers?
Homosexuality is illegal, as are public displays of affection between people of any gender. However, unmarried couples can stay in the same room together, and Saudi Tourism has stated that “Like other governments, we do not ask visitors personal questions and we respect the right to privacy.”
Will I be able to meet locals?
Yes. Saudi hospitality is renowned — the people are friendly and keen to share their country and culture with visitors.
Currency
Saudi riyal/SAR
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