The pressing global environmental crisis, driven by extensive industrial activities, has reached a critical stage, demanding transformative approaches across various sectors. Among these, the fashion industry stands out as a significant contributor to environmental degradation, intensifying the need for sustainable solutions. It is labelled as the third-largest consumer of water and the fifth-largest emitter of greenhouse gases worldwide. The massive disposal of clothing each year, along with harmful dyeing processes, worsens the ecological situation. This environmental crisis calls for a reassessment of the fashion industry’s practices and a shift towards sustainability. One emerging concept is ‘regenerative fashion’, which aims to address environmental concerns by promoting principles such as recyclability, biodiversity, watershed improvement, soil enrichment, and carbon emissions reduction. This approach raises critical questions: How can regenerative fashion catalyse recyclability and help alleviate environmental concerns within the apparel industry?
The implications of the fashion industry’s pollution rankings are significant, demanding urgent action to mitigate its environmental impact. Depleted water resources, dyeing process pollution, and greenhouse gas emissions require a re-evaluation of industry practices. Collaborative efforts across the industry, from design and production to distribution and consumption, are crucial for ushering in a more sustainable era for fashion. This situation highlights the urgent need for transformative approaches that reassess and reshape industrial practices, especially in sectors with significant environmental footprints like the fashion industry.
A Transformative Concept
Fashion is ever evolving, requiring constant adaptation to new trends while leaving behind outdated ones. However, it operates on timeless principles, one of which recognises the cyclical nature of trends, giving rise to regenerative fashion. This concept emphasises aligning fashion practices with the ecological well-being of the planet. Instead of solely focusing on profit, fashion businesses embracing regenerative practices prioritise environmental stewardship. By adopting regenerative practices, the fashion industry aims to benefit the environment while also reaping social and economic rewards. The ethos of regenerative fashion centres on revitalising ecosystems, promoting biodiversity, and improving soil health. It also considers social impact, ensuring fair pay for workers and supporting their communities.
Principles of Regenerative Fashion
Recyclability: Recyclability is a fundamental aspect of regenerative fashion, emphasising the ability to reuse materials (Smith & Johnson, 2022). Unlike the traditional linear model in fashion, regenerative fashion aims for a circular system (Jones et al., 2021), where materials are designed for continuous recycling, minimising waste and reducing the need for new resources. This principle is exemplified by forward-thinking fashion designers who prioritise recyclability. For instance, Stella McCartney, known for her dedication to sustainable fashion, integrates recyclable materials like sustainable cotton and regenerated cashmere into her designs. Her ‘Loop’ sneaker, made from recycled polyester and sustainably sourced materials, not only promotes recyclability but also supports a closed-loop system where sneakers can be easily disassembled, recycled, and repurposed. In regenerative fashion, products are crafted to fit into circular systems to promote sustainability (Green & Black, 2022). This involves using easily recyclable materials, incorporating modular designs for easy disassembly and reassembly, and ensuring efficient component separation for recycling purposes. The approach also encourages the exploration of innovative materials that maintain quality even after recycling (Brown & Smith, 2022). Additionally, regenerative fashion advocates for upcycling, transforming waste materials into valuable items, thereby reducing the demand for new resources and diverting waste from landfills.
Biodiversity: Regenerative fashion, grounded in the principles of environmental sustainability, emphasises biodiversity conservation (Green & White, 2023). This includes sourcing materials in a responsible manner, avoiding ecological damage, and aiding habitat restoration (Brown & Black, 2020). The use of sustainable materials, such as organic cotton, highlights regenerative fashion’s dedication to minimising environmental impact. One key approach is the proactive restoration of natural habitats affected by industrial activities, seen in initiatives like reforestation and creating wildlife corridors (Brown & Black, 2020). Agricultural practices that support biodiversity, avoid pesticides, and enhance soil health further illustrate regenerative fashion’s commitment (Green & White, 2023). H&M’s Conscious Collection is a practical example, using sustainable materials and avoiding those associated with deforestation, thus supporting biodiversity conservation. Despite challenges stemming from the fashion industry’s history of practices harmful to biodiversity, regenerative fashion presents significant opportunities for positive change. Through sustainable methods, the industry can pave the way towards a more biodiverse and sustainable future.
Watershed Improvement: The fashion sector greatly affects water resources, spanning from raw material cultivation to dyeing and finishing procedures (Johnson & Green, 2019). Regenerative fashion strives to enhance watersheds through practices that curtail water consumption, diminish pollution, and bolster the overall well-being of water ecosystems (White et al., 2021). This encompasses responsible water resource management and the mitigation of detrimental chemicals in manufacturing processes.
Soil Enrichment: Soil vitality is crucial for agriculture and mitigating climate change (Smith & Brown, 2018). Regenerative fashion prioritises soil enrichment through sustainable farming methods for plant-based fibres and integrating regenerative agricultural practices into material production (Green & White, 2023). This not only fosters soil health but also aids in carbon sequestration efforts.
Mitigating Carbon Footprint: Regenerative fashion places great emphasis on tackling the fashion industry’s role in climate change (Jones et al., 2019). It advocates for substantial reductions in carbon emissions across a garment’s entire lifecycle. This involves selecting materials with lower carbon footprints, employing energy-efficient manufacturing methods, and minimising emissions related to transportation and distribution (Smith & Green, 2020).
Regenerative Practices Across Fashion Production
Regenerative Agriculture: Engaging in sustainable practices like using leftover dead stock fabrics for new textiles is a positive step towards reducing environmental impact. However, true solutions are found in regenerative farming. Regenerative agriculture goes beyond organic or sustainable farming by actively revitalising plants, soil, and the surrounding environment. In the realm of sustainable fashion, this method, often called ‘regenerative ag’, is gaining prominence. Typically, conventional farms are large monocultures using pesticides and deep tilling. In contrast, a regenerative farm offers a different approach—diverse crops strategically planted to support each other’s growth. For instance, on a cotton farm, snap peas may act as ‘cover crops’, providing shade, cooling the soil, and promoting microbiome growth. Regenerative farms also use methods like ‘pollinator strips’ to attract bees and butterflies and ‘trap crops’ to divert pests, reducing the need for chemical pesticides.
Eileen Fisher, a well-known designer, exemplifies the integration of regenerative practices in fashion. She has introduced regenerative wool to her clothing collection, demonstrating the transformative impact of regenerative farming. This wool not only helps combat climate change but also adheres to the principles of regenerative agriculture, representing a significant step forward in sustainable and eco-friendly fashion.
Regenerative Textile Processing: The processing phase is essential for converting raw fibres into fashion products or garments. This journey, from harvest to consumer-ready products, encompasses a series of processes that raw materials undergo. While many fashion designers primarily focus on aesthetics, such as the look and feel of the product or fabric, they often overlook the technical complexities of textile processing. The intricacies of this processing can be bewildering for designers, making it difficult to understand the factors contributing to a fabric’s look and feel. Typically, designers specify the desired feel or respond to the latest innovations from mills, leaving technical decisions to textile scientists. This tendency may arise from designers feeling intimidated by the technical aspects of fibre and fabric processing or perceiving themselves as less qualified than experts. This “intellectual timidity” widens the knowledge gap and prevents designers from taking responsibility, further marginalising their role in developing sustainable solutions (Fletcher & Grose, 2012).
A potential solution lies in raising awareness and fostering closer collaboration with nature. Designers can adopt processes without succumbing to intellectual timidity. For example, choosing low-chemical bleaching methods when preparing fabrics for colouring can be a sustainable choice. Using low-chemical or natural dyeing processes, or even exploring colour without traditional dyeing, offers eco-friendly alternatives. Carefully selecting fibres with naturally occurring colours extends responsibility up the supply chain to plant fibre cultivation and animal husbandry, re-establishing a direct connection with nature’s offerings. Additionally, designers can opt for designs that minimise cutting and waste during production. By incorporating such considerations into their creative process, designers can contribute to a regenerative approach that prioritises sustainability and environmental consciousness in textile and apparel manufacturing (Fletcher & Grose, 2012).
Regenerative Fashion in the Afterlife
Clothing regeneration can take the form of repair. Traditionally, clothing repair has been a separate activity from design and production, with specialists working independently of the garment’s original design. However, there are opportunities to integrate future repair and resilience directly into clothing articles. While this approach may initially seem most suitable for expensive ‘classic’ pieces, its application can extend to a broader market when combined with emotional durability, design for disassembly, and adaptability. This innovative method not only extends the lifespan of clothes but also aligns with the emerging trend of leasing or renting clothing, reaching a wider audience and market. Embracing a regenerative approach in fashion involves considering leasing as a transformative method, especially for occasion wear and high-end designer clothing. Shifting from traditional garment ownership to a leasing model, where consumers acquire the utility and benefits of the garment rather than owning the physical item, is key. This shift towards shared access has the potential to minimise overall garment production, contributing to a more sustainable and regenerative fashion industry.
Regenerative fashion prioritises recyclability, creating durable and recyclable garments for extended lifespans (Green & Jones, 2021). This aligns with sustainable consumption principles, emphasising the importance of investing in quality items. Additionally, regenerative fashion educates consumers about recyclability and encourages responsible consumption through brand engagement (Jones & White, 2020).
Final Thoughts
Regenerative fashion is more than a trend; it embodies a comprehensive approach to sustainability in the fashion industry. By prioritising recyclability and incorporating principles that address biodiversity, watershed health, soil enrichment, and carbon emissions, regenerative fashion aims to redefine the industry’s environmental impact. Embracing these principles, regenerative fashion advocates for a shift towards a more sustainable and circular fashion ecosystem, ultimately contributing to broader global goals of environmental conservation and climate change mitigation through the use of organic materials, ethical production methods, and waste reduction techniques. By prioritising regenerative processes, this fashion model supports the health of the planet while promoting long-term environmental benefits.