For people who live in rice-growing countries, and especially for those who eat rice three times a day by choice, the best rice of all is plain steamed. If you proceed to cook it further in the oven, as you will do if you are influenced by foreign recipes, then for purists you are overcooking it. The recipe that follows is respectfully dedicated to such purists, for here the rice is served in a separate bowl and everyone can help themselves and mix it with their adobo. Any lightly cooked or stir-fried vegetable makes a suitable accompaniment.
For 4-6 people
chicken 1, about 1.2-1.4kg, cut into serving pieces, fat and skin discarded
garlic 6-8 cloves, finely chopped
white vinegar or rice vinegar 110ml
lime leaves or bay leaves 1-2
salt 1 tsp, plus extra to season
coarsely ground black pepper ½-1 tsp (plus extra to season) or chopped chillies
peanut oil 2 tbsp
ground turmeric ½ tsp
paprika ½ tsp
coconut milk 170ml
fish sauce or light soy sauce 2 tbsp
Put the chicken pieces into a large saucepan with the garlic, vinegar, lime or bay leaves, salt, pepper or chillies and 1.1 litres of water. Bring to the boil, then cover the pan, reduce the heat and simmer for 20 minutes.
Using a slotted spoon, transfer the chicken to a colander set over a bowl. Turn the heat up under the saucepan and boil the cooking liquid until it has reduced to half its original quantity – this will take about 20-25 minutes.
Heat the oil in another saucepan and add the turmeric and paprika. Stir, then add about 6 tablespoons of the coconut milk. Stir once, then put in the chicken pieces and keep stirring until every piece is coated in the orange-coloured sauce.
Pour in the reduced cooking liquid and the rest of the coconut milk, then bring to the boil and let it bubble gently, stirring often, for 10-15 minutes. Add the fish sauce or soy sauce, then taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve hot, with plain steamed rice.
From The Rice Book by Sri Owen (Bloomsbury, £30). To order a copy for £26.40 go to guardianbookshop.com