Since its inception in 2009, Max Mara Atelier has focused on its hero product, the coat, and this year, the brand introduced a signature red as a subtle motif on the garment. This was inspired by Max Mara illustrations from the 1950s, when red was also the color for basting and artisanal stitching, explained Laura Lusuardi. “It’s the fil rouge between the past and the future, tradition and innovation,” said the fashion director. Red stitching drew an M monogram beneath the coat collar and framed a discreet pocket interior contrasting with a rich bronze lining in the garments. Out of the 15 looks, there was one coat in this color.
Lusuardi looked to couture details and the “relaxed attitude” of French women for the lineup, so much so that the coats were given French names. The “Manteau Monsieur,” inspired by a 1959 masculine style, came in two variations of cashmere and camel and in total black wool and silk. The “Evasée Manteau” was shown in black wool and silk with a collar embellished with crystal embroidery or in dark green jacquard brocade that shone with golden reflections. The “Trench d’Hiver” was sartorially crafted in leather. Whatever the name, the luxurious coats reflected Max Mara Atelier’s expertise and the time-honed skills of the company’s artisans and seamstresses.
The collection was presented in Venice in the mid-20th-century Olivetti showroom on San Marco Square, with sleek interiors by Carlo Scarpa and vintage typewriters. Lusuardi chose the location for its striking architecture, mosaic floors, rosewood shelves, African teak elements and its remarkable central staircase, which all served as the perfect backdrop for the sculptural coats.