By her own admission, show locations have always informed Marine Serre’s collections.
For spring, she not only picked Florence, as a guest of Pitti Uomo, but also the Villa di Maiano venue, a hilltop 15th-century estate surrounded by lush gardens and a breathtaking view of the city.
The refined charm of the location — which she contended screams “The Godfather” movie set — had the French street darling thinking about couture, an overall polished look, and perhaps a little too literally about Italian elegance.
Even though it was her first stand-alone menswear display (one of the reasons she accepted the trade show’s invite), there was no shortage of va-va-voom garb for ladies, from the opening look, which combined a top made of cascading vintage jewels and a voluminous crinoline skirt, to the barely there silk lilac frock that followed.
Men trod the runway in elongated double-breasted suits — severe and buttoned-up — and airbrushed glossy leather ensembles bearing the brand’s signature crescent moon pattern. Sartorial silhouettes including vermillion red suits worn with a black shirt evoked the look of ‘70s German group Kraftwerk.
The last chapter of the show — all make-do-and-mend white looks crafted from upcycled household linens and lace — hinged on the designer’s penchant for culturally rich designs. Here was a message of unity and peace. “Sempre legati,” or “Forever bonded,” was the show title.