There are few faces more synonymous with vintage fashion than Dita von Teese’s. The burlesque dancer, who was tapped by none other than Taylor Swift for the accompanying music video to her 2022 single ‘Bejewelled’, has crafted a name for herself as somebody with a true reverence for all things vintage.
Of course, von Teese requires little in the way of introduction. Born Heather Sweet in a small farming town in Michigan, it was vintage fashion – notably from the 1940s – that empowered her as a shy teenager to feel emboldened in her femininity. The rest, as they say, is history. Today, she is renowned and revered burlesque dancer, model, and businesswoman, who is credited with re-popularising the long-forgotten style of dance, earning her the title of ‘Queen of Burlesque.’
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While buying vintage fashion à la von Teese has never been more en vogue, that doesn’t make it straightforward. And should you find yourself wondering just how others manage to scour through rails of clothes to find the real gems, we took it upon ourselves to mine von Teese for the answers to this very question. In fact, we asked her what exactly her go-to vintage fashion tips are (you’re welcome).
- Have vintage finds tailored to fit you, but ask the tailor to leave the seam allowance so it can be refitted later down the line for either yourself if need be, or for someone else to enjoy when you are finished with it.
- Have your true measurements handy when shopping for vintage. It’s not always possible to try things on; some dealers won’t allow it, and you’ll also want to know numbers for online shopping. I always check the hem length to avoid buying dresses that are too short.
- Learn the lingo. Find key words for what you like to effectively search online. This could be designers, eras, styles and various words to describe the item.
- Understand that vintage sizing numbers are not at all equivalent to modern tag sizing. A vintage size 10, for instance, can be teenage sizing.
- Consider having an account to resell things you decide aren’t for you, or after your finished with a piece. Depop is where I resell my vintage things. If something doesn’t work for me, I may also contact the dealer I got it from to see if there was someone second in-line for a piece. Don’t put the responsibility on the seller though, most dealers don’t take returns on vintage.
- Have seams reinforced. Many 1930s and 1940s clothes have fragile threads. It’s normal to do this, and lessens your chances of blowing out a seam when you’re wearing vintage.
- Try to replace broken zippers with something true to the era. I always look for metal replacement zippers for my 1930s and 1940s pieces whenever I can.
- Don’t chop the hem of a dress. Have it shortened to your length, but try not to cut the original length, as it lessens the value of the piece should you ever come to re-sell it.
- Don’t buy things with moth damage unless you have a good understanding of dealing with moths. I put vintage sweaters and other wool items in the freezer and dry clean them before adding to my wardrobe. 
- Steer clear of vintage shoes; the upkeep of them is a lot of work. I used to wear 1930s and 1940s shoes but they dry out, crack and sometimes need to be entirely reassembled. It’s all possible, but it’s something I don’t bother with very often anymore.
- If a covered button is missing on something, I will have my tailor make a new one by taking a bit of fabric from the hem or a seam.
Dita will be appearing at the UK’s biggest celebration of classic cars and vintage fashion, Goodwood Revival, September 6-8, 2024 in West Sussex. Tickets are available here.
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