Tuesday, November 5, 2024

I vintage shopped ’til I dropped in this underrated French city — where flights are just £50

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I picked up some French bargains (Picture: Almara Abgarian)

Move over Paris, there’s another French gem that’s a secret Alladin’s cave for vintage-lovers like me.

I love nothing more than exploring a flea market or digging through a second hand shop to see what I can find and here, in Bordeaux, there’s second-hand bargains galore.

The biggest flea market in town is the famous Les Puces de St Michel, which sits along the river by Quai des Salinières.

Almara Abgarian Bordeaux
Beautiful Bordeaux (Picture: Almara Abgarian)
Almara Abgarian Bordeaux
Les Puces de St Michel was a treasure trove of knick knacks (Picture: Almara Abgarian)
Almara Abgarian Bordeaux
There was even art work on sale at Les Puces de St Michel (Picture: Almara Abgarian)

It’s here that I find my best buy of 2024 so far – a black vintage men’s jacket, which costs me just £2.50.

I feel distinctly cool and French as I try it on. The market is packed with antiques, furniture, art and nick-nacks and any interiors buff who is doing up a home will be lost for hours.

The further down you go through the stalls, the more you’ll notice tourist tat and cheap fashion from high street brands.

Almara Abgarian Bordeaux
This jacket was my first find (Picture: Almara Abgarian)

Visit with an open mind and bring cash. Sunday is the best day (I went on a Friday) as vendors come out in full force in a different location called Place Canteloup.

Afterwards, grab an espresso in the sun by the Basilique Saint Michel before swinging by the local book market in Place Jean Moulin, in front of the impressive Cathedral Saint-André.

Almara Abgarian Bordeaux
Trying on some options (Picture: Almara Abgarian)
Almara Abgarian Bordeaux
The book market was in a beautiful setting (Picture: Almara Abgarian)

Don’t expect too much; most of the books are in French so this is more for browsing than shopping, unless you speak the language.

But there are lots of good independent shops – especially for cheap jewellery – nearby. 

You can’t find bargains on an empty stomach. I highly recommend the quiche and cakes at Møna, a spot that appears to be well-loved by locals. 

Almara Abgarian Bordeaux
A local favourite (Picture: Almara Abgarian)

The most important thing to remember about vintage shopping in Bordeaux – or anywhere, for that matter – is that each store usually has its own style, so you need to explore to find the ones you like.

Most of the second-hand shops are conveniently located in the same area, on either side of d’Alsace-et-Lorraine.

Almara Abgarian Bordeaux
Kilo had an abundance of stock (Picture: Almara Abgarian)

We start off at the newly-opened Kilo Shop on Rue Saint-James, which has so much stock it’s almost overwhelming.

Thankfully, everything is neatly organised and we picked up a gorgeous beige trench coat for around £45.

Almara Abgarian Bordeaux
My partner, Alex, showing of his new trench coat (Picture: Almara Abgarian)

At Tilt Vintage – which is slightly smaller but still has everything a hipster could want, including cheap hats and sunnies – shop worker Marina shares her shopping secrets with me.

Aside from the store where she works, Marina recommends Docks Caviar, the biggest second hand shop in the city, which has been running for 27 years.

Almara Abgarian Bordeaux
Docks Caviar has been running for almost 30 years (Picture: Almara Abgarian)

Spread across two floors, it’s impressive but mostly focused on US workwear brands, like vintage jeans, overalls, shirts and T-shirts from brands like Levi’s and Carhartt. The owner’s friend supplies most of the items from south Texas.

Another good spot is Blue Madone, which has second-hand pieces but also new fashion created on-site by the three designers who run the shop.

Almara Abgarian Bordeaux
Blue Madone has old and new fashions (Picture: Almara Abgarian)

This includes Emilie Fourquet, who specialises in using paints on silk fabric, a special skill handed to her down from her mum and grandmother.

Also try Freep’Show on Rue du Loup or Platine on Rue Bouquière. Both Freep and Platine are second hand shops, and both are on the smaller side. Freep has more standard items like t-shirts, colourful shirts and jeans (ideal for someone looking for basic goods to start out their vintage wardrobe). Platine is a bit more unique in its selection with statement pieces, such as a glossy brown leather coat that I tried on and loved.

Almara Abgarian Bordeaux
inside the super cool Freep (Picture: Almara Abgarian)



The best of the rest: What else to do in Bordeaux

For sightseeing, swing by the ‘water mirror’ (the famous reflective pool in front of Place de la Bourse), go for a stroll in the public park (The Jardin Public) or jump on the public transport boat down the river.

On the right bank, you’ll also find the Darwin ‘ecosystem’ – which is essentially a miniature hipster village housed in former military barracks. 

Almara Abgarian Bordeaux
My partner, Alex, getting comfortable at Darwin (Picture: Almara Abgarian)

The huge buildings offer everything from street art, a skatepark, a BMX hanger, a bistro and dining hall, several bars, a bakery and chocolatier, co-working spaces and more, plus regular events.

If you’re bringing the kids along, visit the fun fair with over 200 rides in the middle of the city which runs every March and October.

Bordeaux Wine Trails offer tasting workshops in the city, as well as a new electric e-bike tour through St Emilion’s many vineyards.

Almara Abgarian Bordeaux
One of the many wine shops in St Emilion (Picture: Almara Abgarian)

Raise a glass to your fashion finds

Shopping is thirsty work, and Bordeaux is home to around 7,000-8,000 wine-makers who produce millions of bottles every year.

There’s even a museum dedicated to the drink, aptly named la Cité du Vin (translated as the City of Wine), with the building shaped like the ‘swirl’ the liquid makes as you swish it around in your glass.

Almara Abgarian Bordeaux
I couldn’t not enjoy some wine (Picture: Almara Abgarian)

I’ll be honest, while I enjoy drinking wine, I am by no means a wine connoisseur, so I did worry that spending a few hours in a museum dedicated to its history would be a bit… well, dull.

That’s why I was pleasantly surprised by just how fun the museum is. My boyfriend – who doesn’t drink alcohol – agreed.

We received a headset and receiver upon arrival that you can ‘tap’ against various sections in the interactive space, which means everyone can explore in their own way. 

At The Buffet of Five Senses, you can sniff items like honey, chocolate, leather gloves and old books in glass containers.

Almara Abgarian Bordeaux
The Buffet of Five Senses was an experience ((Picture: Almara Abgarian)

Or watch films, jump up and down to crush imaginary grapes, sit in a dark dining room with strangers and enjoy a light show and explore a gallery that explains wine cultures across the globe.

Our favourite part was by far the wine bar, which offers glasses from different countries every day that you can sip on the 360-degree outdoor walkway.
If you want to see Bordeaux from above, this is how to do it.



How to get there and where to stay

You can get a one-way flight to Bordeaux for under £50 with Ryanair. The flight time is around 1h 40min. 

The train into town, which is part of the public transport system (TBM), runs just outside the airport and costs just a few quid. 

Almara Abgarian Bordeaux
A beautiful stay (Picture: Almara Abgarian)

We stayed at the charming Marty Hotel Bordeaux, which is part of Hilton’s Tapestry Collection, a 20-minute stroll from the centre of town. Prices start from 196€ per night.

The rooms are small but cute. And if you like the art you see around the venue, check in with the staff – some of it is for sale.

Almara Abgarian Bordeaux
Stunning interiors (Picture: Almara Abgarian)


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