This week, we take a look at the growing world of vintage and archival fashion, including what’s driving the interest and how brands are capitalizing on it.
Vintage fashion is on the rise.
A Current Affair, the vintage fashion trade show, is hosting its annual pop-up vintage marketplace in Industry City on June 1 with over 70 vintage retailers from across the country in attendance. Also this weekend, Manhattan Vintage, another New York-based vintage marketplace, is hosting its first summer show, adding to the three other shopping events it hosts throughout the year. Ninety vintage fashion dealers will be in attendance.
The two events are coming at a high point for vintage fashion. Major companies like Kate Spade are dipping into their own archives, stylists are in an arms race to dig up the best archival pieces for their celebrity clients, and resale companies are growing off the back of the vintage revival.
Richard Wainwright, co-founder of A Current Affair, started the company in 2010 as a vintage trade show bringing together 25 vintage fashion dealers for one event. A Current Affair has since grown to include shows in three cities multiple times a year and a bimonthly Instagram Live show selling the best of vintage fashion. A Current Affair charges around $18 per attendee to come to its show and shop.
Wainwright said the growth of his show comes down to the fashion industry’s desire for uniqueness.
“In the case of archival pieces, the audience for rarefied pieces has realized that the way to truly set themselves apart is to find something that has extremely limited availability while also demonstrating their fashion knowledge,” Wainwright said. “For those in search of unique or one-of-a-kind pieces, vintage presents the opportunity to mix styles, eras and textures in a way that has a number of permutations only limited by the wearer’s imagination.”
In recent months, celebrities like Sydney Sweeney and Anya Taylor-Joy have graced the red carpet in vintage pieces pulled by their stylists from sources like A Current Affair and Manhattan Vintage. In the U.S., sales of vintage and secondhand fashion grew 15% last year and approached $20 billion in revenue, according to data from eMarketer. Vintage, as opposed to just pre-owned, typically refers to clothes that are older than 20 years.
Gen-Z shoppers are driving vintage sales, with nearly 60% of the demographic buying vintage, but they’re not the only ones. Jules Dahbura, founder of the nail brand Deco Beauty, told Glossy she shops almost exclusively vintage and that shows like Manhattan Vintage are a necessity to find good value.
“My primary challenge with vintage is it can be hard to know where to source. Thrifting is not always vintage, and my maturing brain can’t handle a thrifting experience,” she said. “I need a highly curated experience where a dealer has taken the time to only offer their best pieces and isn’t just buying garbage bags full of clothes, and for that reason, I love many of the vintage shops in Williamsburg and the Manhattan Vintage show.”
Danielle Ohl, a journalist with Spotlight PA, told Glossy she started shopping almost exclusively vintage clothes after the pandemic, when she was trying “to figure out how adults with style dress themselves if they don’t want to just, like, go to Target or Old Navy.”
“Fellow journalist and online friend Karen Ho tweeted a link to a Goodwill auction for a red, silk Oscar De La Renta blazer going for about $15,” Ohl said. “I didn’t even know it was possible to get stuff like that for prices like that. I won the auction, and it was so revelatory to me. Like, ‘Oh, I don’t have to be limited to shopping at the same stores I shopped at when I was a teenager. I can buy nice things, sustainably and affordably.’”
Amy Abrams, owner of Manhattan Vintage, said she hopes the company’s summer show will continue to introduce a vibrant new community of dealers, collectors and enthusiasts” to vintage fashion. She also called out the many fashion brands and retailers expressing interest in vintage.
“Everywhere you turn, you see fashion brands collaborating with and leaning into vintage,” Abrams said. “Mytheresa announced their partnership with Vestiaire Collective this week, Atelier Jolie is collaborating with Vintage Customan, the list goes on. We previously partnered with TheRealReal and LoveShackFancy, whose creative director dug into her personal archive to sell pieces at the show. All of this continues to inspire and feed future design trends … and furthers our deep-held belief that the future of fashion is vintage.”
Also this month, Urban Outfitters announced two vintage-related projects. It first introduced a new section of its online store focusing on archival and vintage pieces by the likes of Carhartt, Calvin Klein and Celine ranging in price from $50 to nearly $800 per piece. And toward the end of the month, Urban Outfitters partnered with Kate Spade to dig into the brand’s archives and relaunch three archival styles of the brand’s ‘90s era Baguette bag for a limited time.
At the time, Urban Outfitters’ new president, Shea Jensen, told Glossy that vintage would continue to be a growth driver for the company, which saw its revenue increase 8% to $1.2 billion this past quarter.
“[Vintage] aligns with current trends and our customers’ desires for unique fashion,” Jensen said. “As we move forward, we see significant opportunities to expand our offerings and continue to innovate within the vintage market, across site and stores.”
Stat of the week
Almost three in five consumers bought a secondhand good in the last year, according to eBay vp of global fashion Charles Marquez. This month, ahead of Recommerce Day on May 21, eBay conducted surveys of its customers on the state of resale. A designated day to celebrate resale, Recommerce Day was introduced to the California State Legislature by State Senator Dave Cortese on May 15. The city of San Jose, California has also begun recognizing the day.
“While shoppers are becoming more considerate about their consumption, eBay is focusing on enhancing their experience on the marketplace so that buying and selling pre-loved fashion is the first choice instead of a last resort,” Marquez told Glossy.
Executive moves
Megan Grant is taking over as the new president and CEO of Louis Vuitton in the Americas, coming from her previous position at L’Oréal USA.
Claudio Sforza will reportedly take over from Massimo Renon as CEO of Benetton Group.
Andrew Rosen of Theory has had an ownership stake in Rag & Bone for years, but will now be the Guess-owned company’s executive chairman, as well.
Lastly, Calvin Klein named a new creative director on Thursday, Veronica Leoni. who has experience working at brands like Moncler, Celine and The Row.
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