MILAN — Fashion designers might have displayed relaxed tailoring and new takes on preppy style over the past week here, but hairstylists opted for a decisively more unconventional approach in their work.
The men’s grooming department offered a lot of flashy options, both when aimed at exalting individuality and when a uniform beauty look was required.
File under the first category the work of Eugene Souleiman at the Moschino show, where the cast of different, fun characters assembled by the brand’s creative director Adrian Appiolaza expressed its uniqueness also through hairstyles. Hence a neon green head popping up next to manes with tufts coiffed upward or half gelled and half left in their curly nature.
At JordanLuca, things took an edgier turn in the hands of hair stylist Anthony Turner, who has been collaborating with the brand for few shows now. This time, Turner said he wanted to expand on founders Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto’s punkish vision for last season’s hair.
“The homemade, messy punk made way for the perfected ‘AI’ version for spring 2025,” said Turner. Cue the extra-graphic and super gelled Liberty spikes and mohawk hairstyles he sculpted for the show and which made quite an impact on both the runway and Instagram feeds.
Ditto for the wide assortment of looks paraded on the Magliano catwalk. If Italian designer Luca Magliano was inspired by a sudden summer storm of childhood memories to put contrasting elements in correlation in his collection, hairstylist Louis Ghewy and the Wella team led by Giorgio Parrivecchio mirrored his creative approach by sending both dry and super wet looks down the runway.
The former styles included voluminous manes coiffed back with brush and blow dryer and secured by Wella’s EIMI Perfect Setting spray, mohawks and shaved heads with pink-hued tufts left on the back. The latter included storm drenched-looking manes coated with the Shine Define product for the wet effect and styled with hands to keep manes flat and disheveled, and in some cases punctuated by hair clips, too.
While at Our Legacy, zig-zag comb headbands taken directly from the ‘90s were preferred for the same job, at Martine Rose’s Milan debut show, floor-length wigs stood out as much as the nose prosthetics that the street cast wore. Developed by hairstylist Gary Gill and makeup artist Marina Belfon-Rose, the quirky look embodied the designer’s mission of challenging beauty standards and “obliterate the familiarity which is normally in my shows,” said Rose.