A decades-old beauty trend of injecting mysterious substances under the eyes is making a dangerous comeback.
Called mesotherapy, it is a cosmetic procedure in which a technician uses small needles to inject a liquid mixture of vitamins and minerals under the skin to smooth and tighten wrinkles and decrease fat, all in an effort to banish under-eye bags.
It’s been around for decades in other countries, but has grown in popularity in recent years in the US. It can be performed anywhere there is skin, and is also popular on hands and the stomach.
But before you’ll see any potential benefits, the procedure leaves small raised bumps underneath the skin immediately after injection, giving it a honeycomb-like appearance before it settles. Some even say it makes people look ‘reptilian’ immediately after the injections.
But this is a temporary side effect. Doctors say mesotherapy – which is billed as a painless procedure with little recovery time – comes with serious risks and may not have the desired effect.
Dr Viktoryia Kazlouskaya, a New York based dermatologist told DailyMail.com: ‘The risks of under-eye mesotherapy go beyond minor side effects, especially when people go to inexperienced technicians or do this at home.
‘Patients may experience long-lasting bruising, severe allergic reactions, skin necrosis due to product placement in blood vessels, or even permanent eye damage.’
In addition, each practitioner has their own unique mixture of fluids that they use in mesotherapy, so patients don’t know what they’re getting in their dose, as the substance isn’t regulated or tested like Botox.
The small bumps that appear during mesotherapy will dissipate with time if the procedure is performed correctly, Dr Tripathi said. However, the thin skin under the eye is easily damaged, and if a practitioner isn’t experienced or skilled, they run the risk of creating scar tissue under the eye
Dr Kazlouskaya added: ‘While mesotherapy may be legal in some other countries, the absence of US regulatory oversight means patients could be exposed to counterfeit or unverified products.’
Mesotherapy was developed in 1952 in France to treat blood vessel and immune system disorders, and has since been suggested as a treatment for everything from hair loss to psoriasis, according to DermNet.
The injections combine vitamins, enzymes, hormones and other nutrients. Some blends include prescription medications like antibiotics or drugs that relax blood vessels, according to Heathline.
Today it’s most commonly sold as a way to remove fat in the stomach, erase wrinkles and tighten skin.
Influencers have been sharing photos of the procedure online, and there has been speculation that celebrities like Jennifer Aniston, 55, have used some form of the injections on various parts on their body.
The FDA has not approved any mesotherapy blends for treatment in the face, but the ingredients used in the blends are supposed to be FDA approved.
There is no way to confirm this, however, Dr Tripathi, a plastic surgeon based in California, told this website.
He said: ‘Just like the multi-billion dollar supplement industry, it’s not regulated, so you sometimes may not know what you’re getting.’
Companies sell their unique brand of mesotherapy fluid online – ranging in price from $45 to $349.
Dr Tripathi explained the technique spread largely because it’s cheap, easy to do and takes little training to perform – and many TikTok videos show people performing the procedure on themselves.
But inexperience can be a problem that creates unsightly results, Dr Tripathi said.
This includes risks of developing granulomas – small collections of blood cells and tissues that form when your body’s immune system reacts to a foreign substance.
Additionally, as with any sort of medical procedure, there is a risk of infection, which could cause long term tissue death or damage, Dr Kazlouskaya said. Some people may also have allergic reactions to the products, which can cause scarring.
Some people online say the procedure makes them look reptilian immediately after injections
Jennifer Aniston is widely praised for her youthful appearance, and has been open about getting peptide injections, which may be considered a form of mesotherapy, in her face. She’s also shared she has gotten a salmon sperm facial and has a rigorous skin care routine
The concept of treating under eyes is complicated because there are many different causes for under eye bags – including migration of fat under the skin, pigmentation and loss of skin elasticity or fat.
This is mainly a symptom of aging, but could also be exacerbated by long term sun damage or dehydration.
If someone wants a solution for their under eyes, the treatment has to be tailored based on their particular anatomy. Not all eyebags are created equal, Dr Tripathi said.
For some, the darkness under the eyes might be caused by a high amount of pigment. In this case, using skin care to balance discoloration or plasma injections can help, Dr Tripathi said.
For others, the eye bags could be more visible because the skin has become thin, wrinkled and crepe-like, which Dr Tripathi said laser treatment can be useful in some patients.
In others, fat pads that sit under the eye can migrate forward on the face, giving a more puffy, drooped appearance. This can be solved with a surgery known as a blepharoplasty.
In theory, Dr Tripathi said, mesotherapy could work for people with hollowing under the eyes, but studies have not supported it works.
So while in the right circumstances, it might provide some benefit, Dr Hannah Kopelman, a dermatologist based in New York, recommends making sure it’s the right path before you insist on the treatment.
Dr Kopelman said: ‘As a dermatologist, I always emphasize the importance of a tailored approach to addressing dark circles, starting with identifying the underlying cause and exploring evidence-based options that provide safe and predictable results.’