Monday, November 25, 2024

Craft, sustainability and technology: The future of fashion as seen by the WGSN forecaster

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WGSN predicts that 2026 will be a year of disruption and questioning for consumers, who are increasingly in tune with technology, but who also aspire to a return to craftsmanship and a more reasoned industry. FashionNetwork.com has taken a look at several of the changes anticipated for the fashion market by the consumer trends forecaster.

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The technological transition towards greater symbiosis with humans is one of the major transformations awaiting the market. “It can go either way, and it will,” says Lisa White, WGSN’s Director of Strategic Forecasting and Creative.

This trend is already illustrated by Tiktokers, who mimic the stereotypical gestures of video game characters for the amusement of internet users. Or companies like Wild Capture, which make it easy for brands to showcase their products in virtual worlds. Or UWB, the potential successor to Bluetooth, which can even detect users and track their vital signs. The JOLO (Joy of Logging Off) trend is also taking off.

Artificial intelligence naturally raises questions, with transparency to be developed and social bias to be avoided. According to Lisa White, “42% of American AI experts say they are both worried and enthusiastic about human/tech evolution.” She points to examples of “AI for the better”. Norwegian company Avfall Norge, for example, uses AI to identify the source and nature of textile waste. Space 10 is using it to identify local materials that can be used in the world of design.

More broadly, WGSN points out that players such as Google, Tiktok and Adobe have deployed their signage to differentiate content generated by or with AI. Zefr, for its part, is helping companies to combat deepfakes, artificial images that can cause harm to individuals and businesses. In the same vein, the cosmetics brand Simple has launched a report aimed at combating misinformation in the beauty sector.

An “eco-responsible” industry

A “bio-industry revolution” is also underway, in response to growing environmental expectations arising from consumers’ “eco-rage”, the term used to describe indignation about ecological issues. “Some people thought that ecology would be a trend, but it’s something that will stay with us for the rest of our lives,” points out Lisa White, whose report highlights the need for companies to reward ethical behaviour and consumers.

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Many companies are bringing their share of innovation to this field. One example is the British brand Modern Synthesis and its programmable bacterial nanocellulose, which gave rise to the Bou bag by Ganni. Apoena cultivates micro-organisms in its laboratory to develop skincare products and fragrances, so that it does not have to extract them from the waters of the Amazon. Kuori, for its part, uses by-products from the food industry such as banana peel and walnut shells to design shoes and toys. 

But how do you leave zero trace? The question is now being asked of both products and business models. For example, the Benim Denim brand deliberately only existed long enough to sell off the Renewcell material supplier’s dormant stocks. The Early Majority brand, on the other hand, operates on the basis of an annual subscription giving access to a range of garments that can be exchanged as required. In terms of biodegradability, Jacob Cohën’s Endless Luxury denim opts for unscrewable buttons and biodegradable labels, linings and threads. “At the same time, there is a desire to make products last longer,” says Lisa White, who argues that the very act of buying is changing in nature.

The end of fulfilment through buying?

For WGSN, social media and their personalised suggestions encourage a sense of belonging and “romantic consumerism”. It’s the kind of self-fulfilment that contributes to fast fashion, but which is already reaching its limits with Gen Z. A generation of consumers whose ecological awareness is leading to trend fatigue and a rejection of mass, repeated purchases. This trend has been reinforced by government initiatives, such as in the European Union, where consumers can now deactivate advertising algorithms.

The virtualisation of inspiration and brand experience is also leading to a desire for greater authenticity in relationships with brands. This has partly led Lush to gradually withdraw its advertising from Google and Apple, to distance itself from the tech giants and nurture more direct relationships with customers. Customers who are also looking for points of sale that break away from the chain approach. “These are customers who, faced with the standardisation of chain stores, want to see more artisanal and human addresses,” says Lisa White.

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However, this logic is limited by people’s financial preoccupations, which lead them to make purchases that are sometimes problematic. Last year, 52% of young Europeans aged between 15 and 24 bought at least one counterfeit product online. A trend which, according to WGSN, is encouraged by TikTok and Reddit, which are said to make the process easier and “more acceptable”, even offering advice on how to find the most convincing fakes.

Behind this dichotomy of aspirations, however, lies an expectation of multi-sensoriality, with smell, taste and touch emerging as a reaction to a virtualised everyday life. “We’re moving more towards ’emotioneering’,” concludes Lisa White. For her, fashion brands will now have to offer responsible products at more affordable prices. “And we shouldn’t hide behind the fact that ‘sustainability is expensive’, because that’s not necessarily true”, says White (see our interview). 
 

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