“I want to hope for some light, even if very small.”
That was Rei Kawakubo’s brief manifesto for her Comme des Garçons Homme Plus show on Friday, which lifted the spirits with its dressy, occasionally sparkly fabrics; almost as much pink as black, and wondrous embellishments with fabric that oozed and sagged from seams, jutted in stiff ruff-like formations, or came arranged into loose bows.
Pharrell Williams, Willy Chavarria, Tremaine Emory, Olly Shinder and Eli Russell Linnetz were among the men’s designers dotted among the folding chairs and an overflowing standing section when all the lights dropped and music from Diaghilev’s “Ballets Russes” commenced.
Tailoring is always the foundation for Kawakubo’s menswear, and she supercharged it with all manner of ruffles — some of them geometric in the way of a radiator; others more Elizabethan and romantic.
The opening suits and tailored coats in black, with stiff layers of crisp white tulle underneath, set a formal, dressy template that was sustained throughout the show.
Lustrous satins and velvets, some flecked with metallics, others knife-pleated, heightened the festive feeling, as did the whimsical hairstyles by Takeo Arai, who covered heads with colorful, plastic barrettes.
The Barbie pink first crept in as scarf-like protrusions from black tailored jackets, piping on loose black shorts, and zip-on tulle trenchcoat sleeves. Ultimately, it reached a crescendo in nearly fluorescent frock coats festooned with loose fabric bows.
And then Kawakubo really let loose with colorful, metallic brocades; glossy raincoats in plastic tablecloth florals, and tulle jackets and coats stuffed with colorful fabrics falling in cascading folds.
When the last look appeared, a black tulle trenchcoat sheltering a busy brocade teeming with green and red metallic discs, it almost felt like Christmas, and applause spontaneously erupted. The light had pierced the darkness.