We started to consider the cost of fuel and tolls — and the toll of meltdowns, frequent bathroom breaks for a preschooler and stop-and-go traffic. Then we discovered Amtrak’s half-price tickets for passengers between the ages of 2 and 12, and a free ride (on an adult’s lap) for a child under 2. We ended up booking three round-trip tickets for a total of $255 — only slightly more than I’ve paid for a trip just for myself.
Take a forgiving baggage allowance, invaluable assistance at the train station, bathrooms in close proximity and the ability to have mini-adventures in transit (cafe car, anyone?), and my husband and I agreed: It felt like we were on vacation the moment we got on the train. Arriving in less time than it takes to drive — under three-and-a-half hours to New York and a little bit longer on the way home — was another perk.
Some Amtrak regulars might wince at the idea of sharing train space with a 3-year-old and 9-month-old, so I’ll just say this now: We avoided the quiet car.
Here’s what we learned about riding the rails with tiny passengers.
Take advantage of the Red Cap service
I read that families with kids are allowed to pre-board, but I wasn’t sure how that would work. All my previous experiences taking Amtrak involved watching for the gate to pop up on a screen and then making a beeline to jockey for position with hundreds of fellow passengers.
But using the Red Cap service was hands down the best advice we got.
The employees are described as “dedicated Amtrak staff you can count on for free baggage handling assistance.” They also assist passengers with disabilities, older travelers, large groups — and, yes, families with small kids. Amtrak says customers can tip if they like; I’m here to tell you that this service is priceless for a family and you should definitely tip.
We arrived at Union Station in Washington about 30 minutes before departure with our eyes peeled for red. Near the gates, we spotted a sign and someone in the namesake red hat (plus polo shirt) and asked for help boarding. He rolled our Pack ’n Play on his cart and brought us and another group with a small child right down to the track, then helped both parties find seats designated for groups of three or more people. We were on board by 9:19 a.m., more than 15 minutes ahead of departure.
In a first for me, the train was entirely empty when we boarded.
On our way back to D.C., we asked police in Penn Station for directions to the Red Cap station. Once there, someone checked our ticket and once again, got us on the train a few minutes before anyone else. Both times, we were able to get situated without getting in anyone else’s way.
People who want to use the Red Cap service should arrive 45 minutes early, an Amtrak representative told me later. The service is only available at major stations including Washington, Baltimore, Philadelphia, Newark, New York, Wilmington, Del., New Haven, Conn., and Boston’s South Station on the East Coast. Elsewhere, find it in Chicago, Los Angeles, Portland, Ore., and Seattle.
According to Amtrak, priority boarding is also available for families with small kids at some stations; travelers should ask a customer service representative at the station to find out.
Book early for deals, but read the fine print
I often take Amtrak to New York, so I knew from experience that great prices can be found by searching far in advance, staying flexible with dates and seeking out less-convenient times. By booking six weeks in advance for a Thursday through Saturday, we found times and prices that were doable with kids. (I’ve since been tempted by round-trip tickets for the family for $175.)
Our fare was in the “value” category, which doesn’t come with a lot of flexibility: changes are not allowed, and there’s a 25 percent cancellation fee. The restrictions are clear when booking, but I must have shrugged them off because I was surprised when I tried and failed to change our return time.
Amtrak spokeswoman Kimberly Woods said the half-price discount for kids aged 2 to 12 is “an everyday discount we offer to encourage families to get onboard and experience a better way to travel.”
Kids need to be accompanied by at least one adult, and the discount isn’t good for business class on non-Acela trains, first class or private rooms. One child under 2 is allowed on board for free with an accompanying adult, as long as they sit on a lap.
You’re allowed more free bags than on a plane
My packing strategy for family road trips is usually “better safe than sorry” — which leaves us with a bunch of bags. That likely would have been fine under Amtrak’s luggage rules for this route. Every passenger can bring two carry-ons and a personal item at no additional charge. For people traveling with a child under 2, an additional infant item, like a stroller or diaper bag, is allowed for no fee.
I knew we’d have to manage every item on crowded NYC streets and public transportation as well as “the big train,” as we started calling Amtrak. With a stroller, portable crib, diaper bag, purse, small duffel, tiny cooler bag and two backpacks that held clothes for the four of us, we felt unwieldy — but were still within the baggage limits.
I thought that I might check a bag at the station, but found out in the moment that the train only allowed carry-ons. That turned out to be fine, but it was difficult to suss out in advance if we would be able to check a bag.
The cafe car is your friend
Our seats on both legs of the trip were conveniently close to the bathroom and suitably far from the cafe car — a good arrangement for urgent restroom needs and time-killing sojourns to check out the food offerings.
Amtrak’s website noted that changing stations were available in the bathrooms on “most” train cars, but we never found one. A spokesperson later clarified that changing areas were available on the Acela and some long-distance trains.
Being able to walk around was key; my daughter loved to tap the button to open doors between cars. Seats were spacious, and the view was sufficiently interesting to entertain both kids in spurts.
“Mama look, we’re going fast!” my daughter said as we accelerated. We passed over a sparkling body of water and she excitedly pointed out “the ocean!” We’ll work on geography.
The cafe car’s menu had plenty to satisfy a preschooler’s palate, even if some items like a chewy, barely warm grilled cheese were not a success. An iced lemon pound cake was a hit, as were pretzels and a tropical fruit salad that was as delicious as it was messy.
But it’s still a confined space, so pack entertainment
If you’re a parent too, you know kids get bored and antsy over the course of three-plus hours doing anything. This definitely applies in a confined space.
To pass the time, we packed toys for both kids and a tablet with headphones for our preschooler. She drew using an art app and watched some of her favorite movies and shows on Disney Plus in between walks, trips to the bathroom and food car visits.
The baby nursed, squealed as he tapped on the window and, at naptime, cried a little until we soothed him to sleep. Thankfully, the tears were short-lived — and unfortunately, so were the naps.
My husband and I couldn’t help but overhear someone else’s temper tantrum: a loud, angry businessman cursing during a video meeting, which prompted an Amtrak employee to suggest he relocate to the bathroom if he wanted to use that language.
Unlike my solo train trips, I did not pass my time napping, reading and browsing social media. But I loved taking the ride with them and introducing them to a new travel experience.
We found Amtrak a refreshing alternative to driving, and one that we’ll choose in the future. But we were also lucky on several fronts: The trains were not delayed, which is not always a given. Red Cap service was available at our station. We had our choice of seats when we boarded. There were no diaper emergencies.
If we had boarded somewhere without the extra assistance, or when the train was already packed, it could have been trickier. And the lack of a diaper changing station could have required yogic maneuvering in the bathroom (next time I’ll bring some oversized changing pads). Packing our own snacks and entertainment was crucial.
For us, the best part of the trip was eliminating the drudgery of a drive and turning that time into an adventure where both parents could be present and engaged with our kids. We watched the skylines pass until New York’s came into view and marveled over how much less stressful the train felt than four or more hours on I-95.
“I love the train,” my husband said at one point.
“Me too,” echoed the 3-year-old.