Aldo Maria Camillo, an expert tailor, went a bit against the grain for spring in two ways: While numerous designers are stampeding toward linen and cotton, he leaned into a tech fabric for its lightweight properties and eco credentials.
And amid luxury inflation, he’s priced the made-in-Italy capsule in regenerated polyester at about 40 percent less than his previous collection, which should open his brand to a wider swath of wholesale customers.
He translated the silky, lustrous material from Italian fabric house Olmetex into bomber jackets, a windbreaker, a utility shirt jacket, high-waist pants and shorts, in addition to his signature double-breasted jacket with top-stitch details on the peaked lapels.
“I wanted to challenge myself and to stay within the frame of under 1,000 euros retail,” he said during a showroom presentation, likening the eco fabric to skin, and praising its waterproof and windproof properties. Sewn-in tags will explain that the material is comprised of recycled or recovered plastic bottles.
The designer styled his Olmetex ensembles with washed cashmere tank tops that heightened the sly military feeling given by colors such as army green and aviator blue.
Camillo honed his skills at brands including Valentino, Berluti and Cerruti before launching his namesake label and developing handsome, lived-in fits built on a relaxed waist, and a roomy back without vents.