Friday, November 22, 2024

Act of Rebellion

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Step into the vibrant and pulsating world of London’s street fashion with WWD Style Director Alex Badia. Discover the birthplace of influential trends and immerse yourself in a melting pot of cultures, ideas, and revolutionary fashion movements that have shaped—and continue to define—global style while getting the inside scoop on one of Alex’s favorite places to shop.

Iconic London Street Style

Street style, according to Badia, can be traced back to the tribes of original influencers, pre-dating Instagram, that populated the international global cities. London, with its history of independent thought, has been a key force in propelling street style to the forefront of culture.

The tribes were defined by diverse subcultures that emerged following World War II. The tribes included so-called Ravers, Mods, Rockers and the Punks. London streetwear was a way to express oneself and celebrate individuality. In the 1970s, the punk aesthetic emerged, thanks to icons such as Vivienne Westwood and the Sex Pistols. This do-it-yourself fashion culture became a cornerstone of London’s street style, making it an epicenter of fashion influence.

Pamela “Jordan” Rooke (L) Vivienne Westwood (R) pose in ‘Bondage Suits’ from the brand “Seditionaries” with a friend in London on April 12, 1977.

“Back then, before social media, there were tribes of influencers — the original influencers — who put London on the cultural map as a place for truly independent thinkers,” Badia said. “And through art, music and fashion, London street style was propelled to the forefront of culture. It was an amazing time, and a milestone in the history of fashion.”

Badia said London street style spread and became “radicalized” because it was accessible. “You didn’t need designer clothes,” he said. “The aesthetic was based on the clothes you already had, which was then altered and personalized.”

The Evolution of London Street Style

From the punk movement’s subversive fashion to the post-punk era’s big shoulders and the “new romantics” like Duran and Spandau Ballet, London’s street style has continued to leave its mark on global fashion. Badia said that the grunge movement is another version of punk, with its distressed denim and garments creating a sense of individuality and rebellion through clothing.

Alex Badia

WWD Style Director Alex Badia

ANDREW MORALES/WWD

“The post-punk, new romantics era had a huge influence on fashion,” Badia said. “The movement positioned London at the forefront of street style, influencing culture. “Traditional punk didn’t go away, but, in fact, the music and cultural movement became post-punk. Over time it did fold back a little bit. But it left an incredible mark on culture that continued to evolve. When you look at grunge, for example, grunge is another version of punk.”

London’s influence on vintage clothing as an ultimate expression of style is undoubted, Badia said noting that it is this spirit of self-expression and individuality that continues to fuel the city’s street style, marking it as a must-visit destination for new fashion ideas.

“Distressed denim and garments and everything that has a sense of ‘you can do it on your own by going thrift shopping,’ positioned vintage clothing as being the ultimate expression, and it comes from the streets of London,” Badia said, adding that there’s another aspect of London street style that sets it apart from other trends.

Street style in London photographed for WWD on December 6, 2024..

Street style captured in London on December 6, 2024.

Paul Gonzalez for WWD

“If you look at Galliano, for example, all the shows that he did in London, independently in the late 1980s, early 1990s, it’s all an act of rebellion,” Badia said. “The same thing with Alexander McQueen. It is the mindset of street style based on youth with young people getting together and designing. Today, London is still a place that you go for new ideas. You walk on the street and it’s amazing.”

Badia said the luxury scene in London today is a complex one. While there’s a strong Savile Row heritage of tailored menswear and a royal influence on dressing, it’s the street style that often catches the world’s attention. Brands such as Burberry strive to balance this legacy with the need for innovation and relevance. And London’s fashion scene is not just about fashion weeks. It’s about walking down the streets, experiencing the vibe, and shopping differently, he said. From Shoreditch to Notting Hill Gate, each neighborhood offers a unique slice of London’s fashion culture.

Bicester Village: A Unique Shopping Experience

Model Guinevere Van Seenus McQueen's Fall 1996 show, called "Dante" was shown in a church in the Spitalfields section of London.

Model Guinevere Van Seenus on the runway at Alexander McQueen’s “Dante” Fall 1996 Ready To Wear show in London on March 29, 1996.

WWD,DNR

One notable luxury shopping destination that is creating buzz is Bicester Village, Badia said, noting that it offers an experience that mirrors the city’s diverse fashion culture. With a unique mix of brands that don’t usually coexist in the same area, Bicester Village offers a curated shopping experience that mimics London’s neighborhood vibes.

“The fact that they were able to create a stop on the railway for it, is incredible,” Badia said of the Village. “It’s complete luxury, yet affordable. You have a remarkable mix of brands. It is an incredible shopping experience. Shoppers can have a curated experience that they wouldn’t have in London City. There is a rich diversity of brands at Bicester Village, which makes this destination unique.”

Badia said Bicester Village, located about an hour from London proper, has over 150 lifestyle and fashion brands, dining, and hospitality and services. “It’s a destination made for discovery, relaxation and inspiration,” he said.

London’s Enduring Influence on Global Fashion

Model on the runway at the Erdem Spring 2024 Ready To Wear Fashion Show held at The British Museum on September 17, 2023 in London, England.

Erdem Spring 2024 Ready To Wear runway show finale at the British Museum on September 17, 2023.

Giovanni Giannoni for WWD

Badia affirms that London’s street style and its current fashion offering is all about keeping an eye out for the next big thing. With its history of producing major fashion players, you can never overlook London. With designers like Jonathan Anderson, Erdem, and Simone Rocha at the helm, London continues to be a hotbed for fashion innovation. Badia believes that London holds the potential to produce legacy designers who control the fashion narrative through a blend of ideas and culture.

“London’s street style has had a profound and lasting impact on fashion around the world,” Badia said. “From the early days of the mods and rockers to the more recent trends of grunge and athleisure, London has always been at the forefront of fashion innovation. This is due in part to the city’s unique culture, which is a melting pot of influences from all over the world. Londoners are not afraid to experiment with fashion, and this willingness to take risks has helped to create some of the most iconic looks of the past few decades.”

Looking to the future, Badia said it is likely that London will continue to be a major force in global fashion. The city’s creative energy and its diverse population ensure that there will always be new ideas and trends emerging from its streets. “Next time you’re looking for inspiration for your own wardrobe, keep an eye on what the stylish people of London are wearing,” Badia said. “You might just find the perfect outfit to express your own unique style.”

Bicester Village: London’s Luxury Style Experience

Located just under an hour outside London, Bicester Village is redefining the luxury shopping experience. It is one of The Bicester Collection’s 11 Villages in Europe and China with a 12th opening in New York later this year. In an interview with Tori Campbell, Private Client Director at Bicester Village, she shared insights into how the destination is about much more than just shopping.

“We are a luxury shopping destination. But for us, it is about so much more than shopping, it’s all about the experience. It’s all about the best day out,” Campbell explains.

The Village is home to 150 boutiques of global luxury and lifestyle brands, carefully curated to ensure a blend of international and domestic brands, contemporary and luxury — all in one place. Campbell elaborates, “We don’t have core pillars, we mix it up throughout the Village for that exact reason. The idea is for shoppers to stumble on these amazing treasures.”

Bicester Village is more than just a place to shop; it’s a place to dine and discover as well. Campbell emphasizes that the Village is “obsessed with food and beverage,” offering a range of dining options from Cecconi’s, farmshop restaurant & cafe by Soho House, Ottolenghi and several pop-ups such as Ladurée and Oliphant & Pomeroy.

The Village also prioritizes hospitality and aims to provide the most stress-free shopping experience possible. Even before shoppers get on the train at London Marylebone, they enjoy a first-class experience at the Bicester Village lounge where hosts can assist 7 days a week. And from the moment guests step off the train, there is a host ready to inform them about the day’s special offers and new boutiques. The Village also offers a Hands-free Shopping service, where they carry shoppers’ bags, creating a frictionless, stress-free day out. There is also a bespoke shopping service available to create a fully personalized experience.

“We’re all about ensuring that again, we have that full mix of incredible catering and food and beverage options, coupled with this really, really beautiful mix of brands,” Campbell says. She highlights the added elements of surprise in the form of personal shopping appointments and “random acts of kindness” throughout the day as well as an invitation-only VIP experience in a private space called The Apartment. The Village also extends its luxury offerings even to the restrooms, where Molton Brown hand wash and hand cream are available. “For me, that’s excellent service, because it’s in the details. When you have that level of care, it shows throughout,” says Alex Badia, style director for WWD.

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