For COMME des GARÇONS HOMME PLUS, the Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented by Rei Kawakubo during Paris Fashion Week saw the designer continue to bring the drama for her iconic silhouettes. Hot off the heels of the opening of Dover Street Market Paris, the designer is at the forefront this fashion week. Going hand in hand with la fête de la musique celebrations which occurred the very same night as the show Rei Kawakubo shared, “I want to hope for some light, even if very small.”
The playfulness of the collection was highlighted with its connection between fashion and music. For the soundtrack of the show, Kawakubo chose London Symphony Orchestra’s performance of Eric Satie’s Parade, a ballet that was originally commissioned for Diaghilev’s Ballets Russes. Sounds of sirens, guns and even typewriter was heard and at the time, the ballet’s costumes were designed by Pablo Picasso in his signature cubist style. Bringing it all together, Kawakubo’s collection, titled “The Hope of Light,” saw models were headpieces completely constructed out of vibrant and varied hair clips.
Kawakubo’s use of mix-medium to tell a story continues to transcend, featuring cavalry coats with ruffled edges that extended to the armholes. Ruffles played a big part, seen under jackets to give the piece its volume and to create the likes of a clown collar. Kawakubo reminded us of her signature fearlessness, bringing an end to the black-pink section with a floral transition into bold colors. Strong silhouettes layered with various mediums continued the spirit of Kawakubo’s CDGHP, bringing a sense of surrealism throughout.