We are always scouring the web for the most amazing watches currently available, and each Friday we share five standout pieces with you.
A current model Rolex at retail pricing right now? If you’re struck with disbelief, you’re not alone. Rolex expert Eric Wind told Robb Report earlier this week that, “People don’t realize they can suddenly go buy a modern Rolex for less than it would cost at retail. There was all this hysteria, and so that surprises people.”
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The past few years have seen unprecedented demand around Rolex watches, pushing secondary market pricing to all-time highs. We reported on Monday that prices have been coming back toward buyers in recent months for various reasons, however, and there are a surprising number of current Rolex references on the pre-owned market available at, or within shouting distance of, their retail price (plus tax, in most cases). This “buyers market” opens the door to discovering Rolex’s current collection without the long waiting list blues.
This week, we’ve curated a selection of these modern references that represent the very best of the Crown’s deep history. Whether it’s the over-engineered exploits of the Sea-Dweller, or the quirky nature of the modern Air-King, these are five watches on the market right now that are only a few clicks away from your wrist.
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Rolex Datejust 36 Reference 126234 | $10,295
The Datejust is the quintessential Rolex for many, and the collection’s vast breadth has shown the watch to be remarkably adept at re-inventing itself. The Datejust can be configured many ways, but it’s the jubilee bracelet and fluted bezel which bring the look together in a unique manner that have made the watch a perennial favorite. While it may seem like a simple watch, it was actually the first to bring a date to an automatic chronometer-rated movement when it was introduced in 1945 in celebration of the brand’s 40th anniversary. It gets its name from the date switching “just before” midnight, or, some believe, because the date was always “just.” Today, it is Rolex’s most prolific reference.
The Datejust has been offered in sizes ranging from 28 mm to 41 mm throughout its history, but the 36 mm case strikes a perfect balance and hits the trend toward smaller watches.
This example we’ve curated here sits at 36 mm on a jubilee bracelet with a fluted bezel framing its silver dial with a subtle sunburst texture. This dial color doesn’t compete with the big textures happening on the bezel and the bracelet, while the size keeps everything in manageable proportions, resulting in a watch that feels confident, but not boastful. This example is listed as a full kit in excellent condition, and is priced at $10,295, not far from its MSRP of $9,050. You might even bargain a bit!
Rolex Sea-Dweller Reference 126600 | $12,895
The Rolex Sea-Dweller is the dive watch that cemented the brand’s place in history, with legendary exploits from its inception during the U.S. Navy’s SEALAB project, to its descent to the Mariana Trench strapped to the exterior of the Deepsea Challenger. The Sea-Dweller enjoys a fascinating history, and while it’s technically and physically more robust than a Submariner, it’s surprisingly wearable in its modern guise, the steel reference 126600.
The 126600 was a surprising release from Rolex 2017 for a few reasons. First, this watch marked the first time that a cyclops (the magnifier above the date) would appear on a Sea-Dweller. Second, the reference added a line of red text to the bottom of the dial in a nod to the watch’s history (early prototype Sea-Dwellers had a single red line of text, while the first production references 1665 got two lines of red text, known as a “double red”).
The MSRP of the Sea-Dweller 126600 is $13,250, and excellent examples can be found right around that price in the secondary market now. This specific watch is listed just below, at $12,895 and is listed as a full kit in very good condition. This reference gets the modern 3235 movement, a superlative chronometer meaning it will run within +/- 2 seconds per day. We love this reference for the history it represents, and for how surprisingly comfortable it is on the wrist, despite its 43 mm diameter.
Rolex Air-King Refernce 126900 | $8,350
The Rolex Air-King is a peculiar watch today, but it represents an important part of the brand’s history. Released alongside the Datejust in 1945, the Air-King was an ‘entry-level’ watch, a distillation of everything Rolex represented in its most basic form. The line would truly find its footing in the late ‘50s with the reference 5500, which would remain in production for nearly 40 years. The collection had some difficulty in transitioning to its modern identity, but would eventually do so with the reference 116900 in 2016.
This 116900, built in the chassis of a Milgauss, featured a distinct dial based on the design of the dashboard speedometer the Bloodhound SSC, a rocket propelled ‘car’ that Rolex was involved with at the time. Everything about this watch was polarizing, and many wondered what would become of it in the long haul. The answer would come in 2022 with the reference 126900.
The 126900 would retain the same distinctive dial design, but with a few alterations to bring a better sense of balance. It would also make use of an entirely new case design, which is exclusive to the Air-King. This new case measures 40 mm in diameter with a slim lug and a total thickness under 12 mm, and it might just be the best thing about this reference. This is a seriously good case, and this full kit example remains in excellent condition. It’s also priced within $1,000 of its MSRP, available for $8,350.
Rolex Explorer Reference 124273 | $10,295
Rolex released a new Explorer in 2021 with the reference 214270, returning the watch to its more classic 36 mm sizing, surprising many enthusiasts in the process. As unexpected as that move may have been, it wasn’t the only reference released in the collection. Alongside the steel reference was the 124273 Explorer rendered in steel and gold, or Yellow Rolesor in Rolex parlance. This two-toned execution was a first for the Explorer, and it was quick to garner plenty of attention from collectors as a result. It might not seem like a natural pairing, but this classic sports watch took to the mixture shockingly well.
The Rolesor Explorer is among the most interesting modern Rolex references, breaking with convention while feeling like a completely natural extension of the Explorer collection. This explorer houses the Rolex 3230 automatic movement, which features their Chronergy escapement with Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring for more reliable precision. This example, available from Bob’s Watches, represents a full kit example of the reference 124273, and is priced well below its current $12,050 MSRP.
We have long used Bob’s Watches as a resource for our stories, and trust this seller explicitly.
Rolex Sky-Dweller Reference 326934 | $18,495
The Sky-Dweller is Rolex’s most mechanically innovative watch, perhaps ever. This collection, which was introduced in 2012, and featured an annual calendar complication presented in a wholly unique manner. The date resides at 3 o’clock, while the month is represented by filling in one of the apertures at the end of each hour marker (the 12 hours representing the 12 months). Being an annual calendar, the watch would only require adjustment once per year, at the end of February. In addition to this, a GMT disc is also built into the dial, with a red triangle marking its position.
The functions are all controlled through the Ring Command system, which involves twisting the bezel to switch between functions of the crown. This clever and intuitive system still defines the Sky-Dweller collection today.
The Sky-Dweller is available in many different configurations, and this example gets a White Rolesor case and bracelet, meaning its 42mm case is rendered in steel, while its fluted bezel and bracelet middle links are in white gold. The white dial presents the information clearly, and allows the red accents to pop off of the dial. This is a full kit listed in excellent condition being offered at $18,495.
Please note that we are not affiliated with the sellers of the watches we recommend. We may point out aspects of a listing that we feel are positive, but only you can vet a seller. We can recommend viewing our video “How to Buy It: Vintage Watches” to glean some best practices, however.