New Names Deliver the Buzz at Australian Fashion Week 

SYDNEY — Bermuda shorts and denim were among the key trend takeaways — both on and off the runway — at Australian Fashion Week’s pared-down resort 2025 collections showcase here earlier this month.    

The event was presented for the first time by Danish jeweler Pandora, which staged a launch party for its new Essence collection midweek and then closed the week with a sold-out finale show that created the longest front row in the event’s history. There were four parallel runways that provided front row seating for all 640 attendees, many of whom had purchased tickets. Pandora’s jewelry was teamed with in-season winter looks from 12 Australian brands, including Esse, Bianca Spender and Michael Lo Sordo. 

The schedule featured just 25 shows over five days, down from 43 in 2023, a reflection of the challenging economic climate that has seen a raft of independent brand closures internationally. On May 2, New Zealand Fashion Week said it was postponing its 2024 showcase and would be moving to a permanent biennial schedule, starting in 2025. Shortly after Australian Fashion Week, star Australian name Dion Lee entered voluntary administration following the withdrawal of financing by his longtime backer, Australian mid-market fashion retailer Cue Clothing Co.

New designers nevertheless continue to pour into the event. They included the dozen or so emerging names who win selection each year for AFW’s group showcases NextGen, Indigenous Fashion Projects and The Innovators, which are financially supported by event organiser IMG, the David Jones department store chain and TAFE NSW’s Fashion Design Studio, respectively. The latter is one of Australia’s leading fashion schools and celebrated 25 years of The Innovators at AFW this year, with a finale showcase of designs from its alumni, who include Lee and Nicky Zimmermann.

Niche labels Nicol & Ford and Wackie Ju presented electrifying theatrical presentations, while New Zealand’s brightest new fashion star Rory William Docherty made his solo debut at the event. 

Great weather helped buoy the event’s mood and the lighter schedule allowed buyers more time to take in the shows, which featured the work of 46 designers at the Carriageworks hub as well as several locations across the city, including the Overseas Passenger Terminal, the Sea Life Sydney Aquarium and the heritage-listed Vaucluse House.

“The mood was upbeat and everyone was excited to be part of the vibrant fashion community and thrilled to learn more about the emerging talent from Sydney,” said Kelsey Lyle, ready-to-wear collections, resortwear and denim buyer at Moda Operandi, for which AFW kicks off the resort market each year. 

“Rory William Docherty was a favorite of the week,” she added. “His strong point of view and craftsmanship were evident in a collection that seamlessly blended artistry and wearability. Utilizing texture, Japanese silks, reworked denim and voluminous shirting, Docherty’s work stood out for its innovation and fresh perspective.” 

Of other key trends, Lyle noted, “Hosiery trends stood out in both runway presentations and street style. Drop waist dresses and skirts also maintained their popularity but with a fresh twist — voluminous, bubble-like skirts that leaned toward eveningwear yet fit work equally well for day-to-night dressing. Versatility was a recurrent motif throughout the week. Innovation in denim was particularly notable, with designers exploring new textures, cuts and treatments to elevate this staple.” 

Bridget Veals, general manager of womenswear, footwear and accessories at David Jones, singled out Viktoria & Woods; NextGen designers Amy Lawrance, House of Campbell, Emily Watson and Potirakis, and Carla Zampatti, whose new creative director is Karlie Ungar. In April 2021, founder Carla Zampatti died following a fall at the Sydney Opera.

“The collections were very aligned with what we have seen internationally,” said Veals, adding that accessible luxury brands, denim and ballet flats continue to perform strongly at David Jones. “Overall, the shows have been elevated. Carla Zampatti’s return to the runway was a highlight. It was a slightly more forgiving schedule this year, which allowed those designers who showed a chance to have their moment in the sun. The NextGen runway is a wonderful platform to discover new and emerging talent. In between shows, I also enjoy discovering displays of personal style and self-expression.”

She continued, “We saw a lot of metallic garments and accessories, with high-shine fabrics including touches of silver and gold in the collections from Bec & Bridge and Michael Lo Sordo. Anna Quan and Carla Zampatti featured lace and hosiery but in a classic, discerning way. And we saw the trademark sense of vibrant color and playfulness from Acler and Blanca. There was also a clear sense of less is more, particularly from P.E. Nation, who thoughtfully paired pastels and neutrals in the debut of their new era. 

“There were also many beautiful, sheer and backless moments. Designers such as Blanca, P.E. Nation and Anna Quan took on the exposed undergarment trend we’ve seen internationally, layering trousers and shorts with branded boxers or fish net stockings, sitting high and exposed at the waist,” she said. “Finally one trend we cannot ignore is the Bermuda short, which featured in many collections both casually and elevated.”

Since 2021, multiple First Nations-focussed shows now feature on schedule every year. They include the Indigenous Fashion Projects x David Jones show, which is part of a joint mentoring initiative called Pathways. This year the show featured Gali Swimwear, Ihraa Swim, Joseph & James and Miimi & Jiinda.  One Pathways alumnus, Liandra Gaykamangu, made her solo AFW debut this year.  

“The David Jones Indigenous Fashion Projects (IFP) Runway is a show close to my heart,” Veals said. “We are incredibly proud of the IFP Pathways program and grateful for the cultural exchange. Fashion is such a powerful medium. It’s a great way for people to engage with First Nations people, and share stories that draw on over 60,000 years of culture.”

At last year’s event, Groupe Bon Marché retail consultant Nathalie Constanty made several discoveries, resulting in Le Bon Marché picking up at least four new Australian labels, including Albus Lumen, Joselin, Roame and Clea. Le Bon Marché’s current Australian roster also includes  Alémais, Faithfull, Sir, Camilla and Marc, Oroton, Blanca and Zimmermann, which is the focus of a large pop-up installation that runs until August. 

“When we like a brand, we manage to make space,” Constanty said. “I think they [Australian labels] are getting more and more noticed. In terms of numbers and the way we buy [them], we buy more and more in depth. It started with Zimmermann, which was quite alone for a while. But we’ve been buying three or four new Australian brands every year. We [Australia and France] have a lot in common in terms of femininity and relaxed elegance. Contemporary brands here really shine and I think they’re important to us, because they are different from the ones we have or the ones we see in other countries, whether it’s Paris, London or even Copenhagen Fashion Week. It’s really different.”

Constanty’s favorite shows were Albus Lumen, Romance Was Born and Amy Lawrance, who presented a collection of 12 hand-sewn dresses and matching caps made from ivory silk organza satin and noil silk with handwoven silk ahimsa and tussah linings and faggotting and cartridge pleat details. “I really loved the craftsmanship,” Constanty said. “It reminds me of Simone Rocha at the beginning in London.”

In terms of trends Constanty liked all the denim — particularly artisan denim, as seen at Beare Park, with a bullet-hole treatment. “Definitely denim, definitely sheer – sheer is not something completely new but it’s really, really strong and I think it was in almost all collections. Lace as well and also the mid length shorts or culottes,” Constanty said.

“Last year I was not sure whether the buyers would buy or not but like me, they really liked the collections,” she added. “I’m back this year and it was a different fashion week, with new names. So it makes it very interesting for me and for the store. Let’s see what’s what’s on the agenda next year. It might be far away, but it’s really worth traveling and to Australia and to Sydney to find these amazing brands.”