Thursday, September 19, 2024

Making a case for custom-made clothing

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“I don’t like modern retail,” says Saman Amel, co-founder of his eponymous label, speaking from the brand’s new London atelier that opened in June. “Big lines, fully staffed. I prefer shopping with specialists.”

Amel’s label is certainly specialist: it primarily sells custom-made suiting, starting at £2,600, alongside baggy trousers, leather jackets and vicuña coats that retail for around £30,000 each. “One of our jackets can take 50 hours to make, and six weeks to deliver,” Amel explains. “We create beautiful things that people feel comfortable and sexy in. Good craft allows that.”

With his business partner Dag Granath, Amel launched his brand in Sweden in 2015. The one-of-one pieces are designed in the brand’s outposts in Stockholm and London, and handcrafted in Florence and Naples. It’s quiet luxury, for want of a better term. No logos, just the finest fabrics and materials: raw silk, suede, cashmere, crocodile leather and camel hair. The label blends the softness of Italian tailoring, with a muted palette — navy, black, grey and taupe — familiarised by contemporary Scandi brands. You will never see a bold yellow or patchwork, as you will on Savile Row, the founders say.

Photo: Henrik Lundell

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